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| October 2025 in your Central Oregon ApiaryWell, it’s now actually feeling like Autumn. Leaves are turning, occasionally nights are getting down to freezing, I think I’m starting to smell pumpkin pie spice outside the local coffee stand, and the heat seems to need to be turned on in the mornings. There are still a few flowers blooming in town, and the average high temperature is moving from the 70s to the 60s. Your bees are now working hard to finish preparation for winter mode. For the most part, they’re just finishing off ripening the honey they’ve collected and capping it. They’ll also be sealing up unwanted holes and cracks in the hive, AND kicking out the drones. If your colony is light (less than about 70% full of food), you still have a chance to provide non-emergency food. Since the bees are really no longer collecting and processing much nectar, I generally will feed 2:1 heavy syrup as long as the average temperature is above 55 degrees (other opinions are to only feed 1:1 syrup and stop when average highs are below 60 degrees.) Once that lower average high temperature is reached, really the only way to help your bees are to add reserved full frames of capped honey, or a sugar patty of some sort or fondant. If you’re still having issues getting your mite levels down to winter levels (in my opinion 1% or less), you can still provide treatments. The ones that work now, are formic acid (above 50 degrees), Apivar, hopguard 2 and multiple treatments of oxalic acid (remember there are still capped brood). Please see the HBHC tools for varroa management for specifics……AND follow the directions on the package. If you harvested your honey and haven’t yet extracted, it would be advantageous to finish extracting and bottling before the temperatures get too low both from the viscosity point of view, as well as the possible crystallization point of view. After extraction, remember to store your supers appropriately. You can store them either wet (little bit of honey still there) or dry (cleaned out by the bees). Either store them in a tightly closed area (shed or basement with no “holes”) or in the open, but tightly sealed. This is both to stop robbing, as well as keep the wax moths out. At this point, that weak colony won’t have time to build up. The best action, if you want to “save” it, is to combine it with another colony, assuming neither one is diseased or has issues like a drone laying queen. Finally, If you’re planning on insulating your hive, this month would be a good time to complete that task. As pointed out in September, there are many ways to, and thoughts about insulation. My main concern is to have something (rock or strap) holding down the cover, so it doesn’t blow off in a storm. I also like an entrance reducer primarily to keep mice out. Enjoy the change in the seasons. Allen Engle Support Bees - Learn & Contribute: Want to know which flowers keep honey bees thriving year-round in the Pacific Northwest? Read "Nectar & Pollen Plants of the PNW" Learn how to choose plants that provide season-long nectar and pollen, see which species attract the most bees, and find tips from local beekeepers. Help track which plants our bees visit. Snap a photo of a bee on a bloom, upload it, and contribute to the Oregon Bee Atlas. Your observations will help identify the region’s most important bee plants. OUR MISSIONThe Mission of the Central Oregon Beekeeping Association (COBKA) is to promote effective, economic and successful regional beekeeping through education, collaboration, communication and research in the spirit of friendship. ABOUT US We are a diverse bunch of individuals who share a fascination for the honey bee and its workings. Our members range from full-time beekeepers and pollinators with hundreds of hives to hobbyists involved in backyard beekeeping. Some members do not even keep bees, but are fascinated by the six legs and four wings of Apis mellifera. |