|
Are you interested in learning about bees and beekeeping?If you have little or no experience, the 'Getting Started with Bees' Certificate Program is a great place to start. It is a stand-alone program that satisfies the curiosity of those who want to know more about bee biology and backyard beekeeping through online learning and discussion forums. No waiting list - join at any time! Take your beekeeping to the next level!Are you interested in learning how to become a better beekeeper? Have you experienced problems in the past that you'd like to remedy? Do you want to help others learn about bees? The Oregon Master Beekeeper program is for you! Participating beekeepers gain experience at three successive levels: Apprentice, Journey, and Master. Each level provides opportunities and support for additional learning, practice in the field, and community service. All of our beekeeping programs represent a cooperative effort between the Oregon State University Honey Bee Lab and the Oregon State Beekeepers Association to contribute to both the health of honey bee colonies and the integrity of the practice of beekeeping. For more information, contact Heike Williams at heike.williams@oregonstate.edu Establishing pollinator-friendly habitats and food sources for bees, butterflies and birds https://pollinatorpathwaybend.org/Our website uses cookies. By continuing to visit this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Learn more. | October in the Central Oregon Apiary Now we enter the real time of change. No real freezes yet for most of us, but many will spend several nights rushing out in pajamas to cover tomatoes and squash in a vain attempt to prolong their growth. I find it’s actually a relief when the hard freeze happens. At this point, our hives are deep into winter prep. Reports from trusted sources indicate that colonies are dramatically slowing the production of brood and may stop by the end of the month. The winter bees have been created. If you have weaker hives, they no longer have the ability to increase their population. If they are to survive, they need to be combined with other colonies (but ensure you aren’t killing a healthy colony by combining a sick one with it). If you don’t have your mites down to acceptable levels (as determined by using a sugar roll or alcohol wash), you’ll want to make one last push to get them under control. Treatment options are dwindling as temperatures drop (see the HBHC tools for Varroa management to help decide what to use). I prefer Formic acid (Formic Pro, MAQS, as long as daytime temperatures are above 50°F), Apivar, and Oxalic acid, depending on the mite levels and colony strength. It’s frustrating to have a colony that seems strong but, going into winter with a high mite load, dies in February surrounded by food, due to PMS. If any of your colonies are light (heft the back edge of a Langstroth and it should now feel quite heavy) or most of the frames/combs are not full of honey, you should consider feeding syrup as long as daytime temperatures are above 50°F (some beekeepers suggest 57°F). Personally, I prefer to feed 2:1 syrup, although other beekeepers argue that bees handle 1:1 syrup better at all times. Once daytime highs drop below those temperatures, you’ll need to switch to stored frames of honey or “emergency feeding” techniques (sugar cakes or fondant). Quite a few beekeepers provide “emergency feed” prophylactically, whether needed or not. Finally, winterizing. Our bees have been preparing for winter over the last month by propolizing cracks, sealing holes, and backfilling brood comb with honey. We now need to decide how we will help our colonies overwinter and start the spring strong. There are three main levels of winterizing, and none are strictly right or wrong.
As mentioned above, none of these methods is the definitive right answer, and each has its cadre of successful supporters. Wishing you a good survival rate through the winter. Allen Engle COBKA Meeting Slide/Video Archives
|