October in the Central Oregon Apiary
Now we enter the real time of change. No real freezes yet for most of us, but many will spend several nights rushing out in pajamas to cover tomatoes and squash in a vain attempt to prolong their growth. I find it’s actually a relief when the hard freeze happens.
At this point, our hives are deep into winter prep. Reports from trusted sources indicate that colonies are dramatically slowing the production of brood and may stop by the end of the month. The winter bees have been created. If you have weaker hives, they no longer have the ability to increase their population. If they are to survive, they need to be combined with other colonies (but ensure you aren’t killing a healthy colony by combining a sick one with it).
If you don’t have your mites down to acceptable levels (as determined by using a sugar roll or alcohol wash), you’ll want to make one last push to get them under control. Treatment options are dwindling as temperatures drop (see the HBHC tools for Varroa management to help decide what to use). I prefer Formic acid (Formic Pro, MAQS, as long as daytime temperatures are above 50°F), Apivar, and Oxalic acid, depending on the mite levels and colony strength. It’s frustrating to have a colony that seems strong but, going into winter with a high mite load, dies in February surrounded by food, due to PMS.
If any of your colonies are light (heft the back edge of a Langstroth and it should now feel quite heavy) or most of the frames/combs are not full of honey, you should consider feeding syrup as long as daytime temperatures are above 50°F (some beekeepers suggest 57°F). Personally, I prefer to feed 2:1 syrup, although other beekeepers argue that bees handle 1:1 syrup better at all times. Once daytime highs drop below those temperatures, you’ll need to switch to stored frames of honey or “emergency feeding” techniques (sugar cakes or fondant). Quite a few beekeepers provide “emergency feed” prophylactically, whether needed or not.
Finally, winterizing. Our bees have been preparing for winter over the last month by propolizing cracks, sealing holes, and backfilling brood comb with honey. We now need to decide how we will help our colonies overwinter and start the spring strong. There are three main levels of winterizing, and none are strictly right or wrong.
- Many beekeepers wrap their hives with tarpaper, bubble wrap, aluminized plastic, or rigid Styrofoam around the hive bodies. They might also add insulation under the bottom board and straw bales as a windbreak. They’ll include an entrance reducer/mouse guard, tie down the cover, and provide a blanket or straw box on top.
- From one of our member’s presentations, we learned that most of the heat loss occurs through the top and bottom of the hive. Some beekeepers only insulate these areas, using rigid foam or a blanket box on top. They generally also reduce the entrance and tie down the lid.
- Others simply ensure their hives are healthy, with a strong population and good food reserves. This group will also tie down the cover or place a heavy rock on top and usually add an entrance reducer.
As mentioned above, none of these methods is the definitive right answer, and each has its cadre of successful supporters.
Wishing you a good survival rate through the winter.
Allen Engle
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